Cooking | Magazine

Chris Kimball of Milk Street joins the Globe Magazine’s weekly Cooking column

A roast with Italian flavors, an Australian take on pulled pork, and a weeknight-friendly schnitzel.

Milk Street’s Christopher Kimball (right) and his fennel-rosemary porchetta.
Connie Miller/CB Creatives; Channing Johnson/Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street
Milk Street’s Christopher Kimball (right) and his fennel-rosemary porchetta.

These recipes are part of a new partnership between Christopher Kimball and the cooks at Milk Street and the Globe Magazine’s Cooking column.

I’ve cooked the food of my New England childhood for over half a century. The table I grew up with is based on meat, heat, bread, and root vegetables. It is a cuisine almost entirely devoid of spices, fresh herbs, and bold flavors.

The rest of the world thinks differently. Water — not stock — makes better, cleaner soups and stews. Chilies offer flavor, not just heat. Spices offer culinary alchemy and transformation. Handfuls of herbs are better than tablespoons. And an expanded pantry makes weeknight cooking not just quicker and easier, but more fun.

Traveling the world has changed the way I cook. Home cooks from Chiang Mai and Oaxaca to Naples and Tel Aviv have much to teach us about turning out bolder, fresher, faster food. So I am excited to partner with The Boston Globe every week to bring you recipes that will change the way you cook.


To get you started, we have an Italian rolled pork roast rich with fennel and rosemary; an Australian take on pulled pork that gets an effortless sweet-savory-spicy hit from a combination of miso and gochujang, a Korean spice paste; and a crunchy-tender weeknight-friendly pork schnitzel.


Makes 8 servings 

After testing recipes with pork loin (too dry) and pork belly (too fatty), we settled on a boneless pork butt roast. Be sure to buy a boneless pork butt, not a boneless picnic roast; both are cut from the shoulder, but the butt comes from higher up on the animal and has a better shape for this recipe. The longer the pork rests, the easier it will be to slice.

We added pancetta (seasoned, unsmoked pork belly), which lent a richness to the filling and, along with butter, helped baste the roast from the inside out. A separate rub of brown sugar, salt, and ground black pepper helped season the exterior while also contributing some tasty browned bits.

For the roast:

1 7- to 8-pound boneless pork butt

8 ounces pancetta, cut into ½-inch cubes


4 tablespoons (½ stick) salted butter, room temperature

1 cup (1½ ounces) lightly packed fresh rosemary leaves

1 cup (1 ounce) fresh oregano leaves

20 garlic cloves, peeled

1 tablespoon red pepper flakes


½ cup plus 2 tablespoons ground fennel, divided

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

2 teaspoons ground black pepper

For the sauce:

¾ cup pan juices

 1/3 cup lemon juice (from 3 to 4 lemons)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground fennel

To prepare the roast, remove any twine or netting around the pork butt. Locate the cut made to remove the bone, then open up the roast. Using a sharp knife, continue the cut until the roast opens like a book; do not cut all the way through, as the meat must remain in one piece. Using the tip of a paring knife, make 1-inch-deep incisions into the pork, spaced about 1 inch apart; do not cut all the way through the meat. Set aside.

In a food processor, pulse the pancetta until coarsely chopped, about 15 pulses. Add the butter, rosemary, oregano, garlic, red pepper flakes, ½ cup ground fennel, and 2 teaspoons salt. Process until the mixture forms a spreadable paste, about 1 minute, scraping the bowl as needed.

Spread the paste evenly over the interior of the pork, pressing the paste into the cuts. Roll the roast into a tight cylinder, then set it seam side down.

Cut 7 pieces of kitchen twine, each 15 inches long. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining 2 tablespoons ground fennel, 1 tablespoon salt, the brown sugar, and the ground black pepper. Rub this mixture over the top and sides of the roast. Using the twine, tie the roast at 1-inch intervals, seam side down; you may not need all of the twine. Wrap the roast tightly in plastic, transfer to a large baking dish, and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 48 hours.

Heat the oven to 300 degrees with a rack in the middle position. Set a roasting rack in a roasting pan and pour 4 cups of water into the pan. Unwrap the roast and set it fat side up on the rack. Roast until the center registers 195 degrees, 6 to 7 hours.

Transfer the roast to a carving board and let rest, uncovered, for 1 hour. Reserve the liquid in the pan.

While the roast rests, make the sauce. Pour the liquid in the roasting pan into a fat separator. Let the liquid settle for 5 minutes. In a medium bowl, whisk together 3/4 cup of the juices, the lemon juice, ¼ cup water, olive oil, ground black pepper, and ground fennel.

Cut the pork into thin slices, removing the twine as you slice. Serve with the pan sauce.

Miso-gochujang pulled pork.
Connie Miller of CB Creatives
Miso-gochujang pulled pork.


Makes 6-8 servings

This Asian-inflected take on barbecue pulled pork was inspired by the “Pigalicious” wrap served at Bird & Ewe in Sydney. White miso and gochujang provide deep, savory-sweet notes and lots of complex flavor to oven-braised pork butt. Miso usually is sold in the refrigerator case; gochujang, or Korean red pepper paste, does not require refrigeration until the container is opened. Both are available in well-stocked supermarkets and Asian grocery stores.

1 5-pound boneless pork butt, trimmed and cut into 2-inch cubes

¾ cup gochujang, divided

6 tablespoons white miso, divided

1 bunch fresh cilantro, stems minced, leaves left whole, reserved separately

¼ cup hoisin sauce

3 ounces fresh ginger, peeled and cut into 3 chunks

2 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil

2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

Pickled carrots and jalapeños, for serving

Heat the oven to 325 degrees with a rack in the lower-middle position.

In a large Dutch oven, combine the pork, ½ cup gochujang, 2 tablespoons miso, the cilantro stems, hoisin, ginger, and 1 cup water; stir to combine. Bring to a simmer over medium-high, then cover and place in the oven. Cook until a skewer inserted into the meat meets no resistance, about 3 hours.

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Meanwhile, in a nonstick 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onions and ½ teaspoon salt, then reduce heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Stir in remaining 4 tablespoons miso and cook, stirring frequently, until miso begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a large bowl. When cool enough to handle, shred into bite-size pieces, discarding any fat; set aside.

Remove and discard ginger chunks from the cooking liquid. Tilt the pot to pool the liquid to one side and use a wide spoon to skim off and discard as much fat as possible from the surface. Bring to a simmer over medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until volume is reduced by about half and a spatula drawn through the sauce leaves a trail, 5 to 7 minutes.

Whisk in the remaining ¼ cup gochujang. Stir in the pork and onions. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, until heated through, 5 to 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in the vinegar, then taste and season with pepper. Serve with cilantro leaves, pickled carrots, and pickled jalapeños.

Pork schnitzel.
Connie Miller of CB Creatives
Pork schnitzel.


Makes 4 servings 

Tender, juicy meat with a crisp crust is the hallmark of schnitzel, popular in Germany and Austria. For our schnitzel, we use pork tenderloin, an ultra-tender cut. But instead of cutting the tenderloin crosswise into medallions, we halve it lengthwise, then cut each half crosswise. This creates pieces that are easy to pound into evenly thick cutlets. They are delicious with just a squeeze of lemon, or try them sandwiched with baby arugula in warm, crusty rolls slathered with a garlicky mayonnaise.

1 1¼-pound pork tenderloin, trimmed of silver skin and patted dry

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons cornstarch

¼ teaspoon baking powder

2 large eggs

1¾ cups panko bread crumbs

10 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil, divided

2 lemons, quartered

Cut the tenderloin in half crosswise, making the tail-end half slightly larger, then cut each piece in half lengthwise. Place 2 pieces of pork between 2 large sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet, gently pound each piece to an even ¼-inch thickness. Repeat with the 2 remaining pieces. Season both sides of each cutlet with salt and pepper.

Set a wire rack in each of 2 rimmed baking sheets and line a large plate with a triple layer of paper towels. In a pie plate or wide, shallow bowl, stir together the flour, cornstarch, and baking powder. In a second similar dish, beat the eggs with a fork until well combined. In a third, stir together the panko, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.

Dredge each cutlet first through the flour, turning to coat and shaking off any excess, then through the egg, and finally through the panko. Arrange the cutlets on one of the racks.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat 6 tablespoons oil until shimmering. Add 2 cutlets and cook undisturbed until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs, flip the cutlets and cook until the second sides are golden brown, about another 1 minute. Remove the skillet from the heat. Transfer cutlets to the paper towels, flipping to blot excess oil. Transfer to the second prepared wire rack. Repeat with the remaining 4 tablespoons oil and remaining cutlets. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.

Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to Send comments to